Assembly itself

Assembly process of food waste disposers for household and catering establishments.

1. Disassembly of the existing siphon

If the sink has already been used and has a trap installed, it is necessary to dismantle it. Unscrew the sink drain and by loosening some of the nuts behind the trap, separate it from the rest of the pipe. Proceed carefully and keep holding the trap to prevent the water inside from spilling into the cabinet or on the floor. Therefore, always have a bucket or a bowl ready under the sink to put the trap and its contents into.

2. Adjusting the sink opening

• If the diameter of the sink hole is 9 cm, no further adjustments are needed. The inlets of household waste disposers and some industrial ones are designed for these openings. You can proceed directly to the installation of the disposer inlet as per point 3.
• If the sink opening is approximately 5 cm, it will be necessary to adjust and adapt it for the disposer throat using special products supplied by us or replace the sink with a new one with a 9 cm opening.

Note: Before starting the adjustment of the opening, make sure that the thickness of the stainless steel sheet of the sink is not greater than 1.5 mm. Sinks with a sheet thickness of 2 mm are still found in catering establishments today. If you encounter this, choose another adjacent sink for the disposal or replace it with a new one to prevent damage to devices (thread damage, bearing disintegration, blade chipping).

Attention! The diameter of the drainage hole in the sink can only be adjusted with stainless steel sinks. Ceramic and granite sinks cannot be adjusted!

Cutting and pressing an existing small hole into a larger one should be done according to the following instructions. Disassemble the cutting device into two parts. Place the part with cutting edges and internal thread on top of the sink hole. From the bottom of the sink, place the second supporting part of the device with a screw and bearings, and screw the device parts back together manually over the sink. Ensure that the bottom part of the device fits snugly against the sink around the entire circumference. Sometimes a 3 mm thick layer of asphalt mastic attached to the bottom of the sink may partially obstruct. Trim off any obstructing part if necessary. However, before tightening completely, it is essential to properly position the device additionally! Otherwise, you may damage the sink! The upper part of the device must be placed asymmetrically in the original hole, as far away from the edge of the sink towards the center, but only so that the cutting edge of the device, preferably directly one of the blades, is just behind the edge of the original cutout by approximately 1-2 mm, which will thus cover and simultaneously trim it. This means that only a hole with a clean edge around the entire circumference will remain, without the original small outlet recess. After pressing, this recess would remain in the newly created seating area for the neck, potentially compromising its seal when using the supplied rubber gasket. The main reason for moving the new hole further into the center of the sink is the subsequent placement of the pressing device, as the sink's side walls might interfere with it, and near the edge, the sink bowl already inclines downward, and the neck together with the suspended grinder might not be in the vertical axis. Only now, after precise placement and securing the position of the device by tightening the screw manually, can you proceed with further tightening using a wrench or spanner. Before completing the cutting, which you can tell by looking from above or by noticing that it is becoming quite tight, you must be more careful and simultaneously hold the device from below with your other hand. After trimming, the entire device could collapse into the sink and potentially injure you or fall onto the cabinet floor and damage it. Falling on tiles can cause them to break.

Indentation of the edge of the opening for embedding and correct positioning of the crusher inlet. Apply oil or grease to the bottom of the sink around the opening to ensure easy removal of the metal during pressing. Disassemble the indentation tool into two parts. Place the upper part with internal thread into the created opening, where it must fit precisely, and then start tightening the lower part of the tool under the sink with a screw and bearings from the bottom. Do not tighten immediately to the maximum for thin-walled sinks! During pressing, the bottom of the sink may wave more or less, do not worry. This waviness will return to a relative flatness after loosening the tool, but with the mentioned thin-walled sinks, this is not a rule. Therefore, gradual tightening, loosening again, and checking whether the waviness still returns and evens out or partly remains is necessary. If the waviness does not disappear, it is necessary to find a compromise between a slight waviness of the bottom, which is still not so visible, and the depth of the indented edge for embedding and setting the inlet, which is usually sufficient at this point. If exceptionally the customer points out this fact, it is necessary to explain to them that it is a compromise and the only possible solution, which will save them the cost of buying a new sink with an original large opening. After pressing is completed, disassemble the tool.

3. The location of the tire pressure switch button

If no other alternative control is used. Before drilling a hole, make sure that the position of the pneumatic switch button and tightening its nut underneath the board and sink is unobstructed and there is enough space for it. Some obstacles like the support reinforcement of the workbench, sink brackets, or other components may interfere. Some barriers can be partially removed or adjusted so that their original function is not changed, but it requires extra time, so if not necessary, avoid them. Now unscrew the nut from the body of the switch and place it, or center it at the specified location of the sink or workbench. Trace the inner hole of the nut on the sink with a spirit marker. Mark the center and drill a hole suitable for inserting a screw of a small bracket device. You can either use a quality conical drill bit that will gradually reach the hole for the bracket device's screw or a smaller non-ream drill bit, approximately 7 mm, with which you will drill several holes closely next to each other in a smaller circle and then cut the connections with sheet metal shears. You must grind down the bigger burrs enough for the screw of the device to pass through the hole easily. The bracket device for the switch is similar to adjusting the sink hole, just in a smaller design. It is more practical to use it by tightening the screw above the sink, where there is more room for the wrench or key movement. For buttons that do not have their own rubber seal, use silicone sealant for sealing.

4. Crusher preparation

Remove the disposer from the box, but be careful and hold it from the bottom as well. The bayonet mounting nut may not be completely tightened, and if you only grasp the disposer by the throat, it may detach and fall to the ground. Place the disposer preferably on a table and separate its throat by rotating the bayonet mounting nut. In the disposer chamber, you will find other components, a bend, a plug, and installation material. Now vertically attach the bend to the disposer according to the instructions in the user manual chapter 4. CONNECTING THE WASTE BEND. First, slide the metal flange onto the bend, then insert the rubber sealing with a groove onto the end ring of the bend. If you need to connect a sink overflow or dishwasher through the disposer, remove the plug of the optional inlet using a pin or screwdriver according to the instructions in the user manual chapter 3. CONNECTING THE DISHWASHER (if needed).

Installation of the crusher inlet.

If the sink is not new, after disassembly of the original waste outlet, or after adjustment of the device opening, it is necessary to wipe any dirt from the original waste outlet or remove leftovers of used oil during threading and pressing. After cleaning and degreasing especially the sealing surface of the opening, you can proceed with the installation of the already separated crusher inlet into the sink according to the instructions in chapter 1 of the user manual COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY OF THE INSTALLATION KIT.

6. Waste disposal

The most suitable connection of the disposer to the drain is directly through its own trap and the shortest straight path to the drain in the wall. If the disposer is installed on a double sink, it is not recommended to use a common trap for both the disposer and the drainage of the second sink. Under certain circumstances, the crushed mixture may be pushed into the second sink, or water may be heard when draining a full sink. Also, noise or gurgling may be heard. Therefore, use a branch directly at the wall, into which you connect two separate branches, one for the disposer with its own trap and the other for the drainage with a separate trap and adapted remaining pipes. Now, hang the disposer on the sink's inlet throat using a bayonet mounting nut. Refer to the user manual, chapter 5, for instructions on CONNECTING THE DISPOSER TO THE ASSEMBLY.

Even when the bayonet matrix is fully secured, you can rotate the disposer and adjust its position to the waste pipe. It's the same as with the pipes of the HT system, which can also be moved without losing tightness during operation. Evaluate the situation and try to find the most optimal way to connect the disposer to the waste, and possibly to other pipes in the case of a double sink, so that as much space as possible is preserved in the cabinet under the sink for a basket, cleaning products, or dishes. At the same time, make sure that the hose with the weight has free space and does not get caught in the installations you will subsequently make if a pull-out end - shower battery is used for the sink. Compare the height of the waste in the wall with the outlet of the elbow on the disposer. The waste in the wall should not be higher than the elbow attached to the disposer with a flange. See information from "Before installation - 4. Assessment of waste".

Assemble the trap, mount it to the waste elbow of the disposer, and now you will find out if the height adjustment on the trap is suitable and if it is possible to achieve a direct horizontal connection to the waste in the wall. If the waste is too high, the trap can be mounted upside down - see the photo gallery. In this case, the plumber only complicates the possibility of smooth adjustment on the trap and must cut the trap pipe to the correct height. This way, it is possible to reach the same height as the horizontal outlet of the disposer and the waste in the wall. Another option is to create a custom trap seal directly from the waste elbows. To lower the waste outlet, it is usually enough to adjust and lower the slope of the waste pipe if it runs along the wall or, in a worse case scenario, if the pipe is led through the wall - partition, it is necessary to cut out and modify the pipe directly in the wall. However, these cases occur very rarely, only in amateur or unprofessional modifications during own reconstructions of residential buildings. We do not recommend using shapable flexible traps, so-called goose necks, for disposers. They have a very thin wall in the bends, which can soon be worn away by the pressure of crushed waste fragments. Additionally, the disposer is not secured against potential rotation in this case, which it tends to do at the start, and mainly the created bend of the trap seal will not maintain its shape, but the pressure of the waste being forced in will cause it to expand to the extent that it will lie twisted and distorted at the bottom of the cabinet and may clog at any moment. Such connection is a source of early leaks, complaints, and customer dissatisfaction. Don't forget to connect the overflow of the sink or dishwasher, if necessary. Refer to Chapter 3 for dishwasher connection. To connect the overflow, use a washing machine hose and cut it to the appropriate length. Thread one end with the original rubber end onto the disposer outlet or, if it is already used for the dishwasher, onto the optional outlet in the waste elbow (only for certain models), and insert the other end into the overflow pipe and seal it with silicone tape or sealant. If the hose does not fit on the overflow outlet, for example, if it has the same diameter, use a shrink tube with internal adhesive, which will adjust and securely wrap around the hose and the overflow pipe after being heated with a heat gun. The shrink tube can be purchased at electrical supply stores or ordered through our company.

7. Electrical wiring

See instructions in the user manual, Chapter 2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTION.